A New Era for Caprice Bistro

When chef James Iseton stepped into Caprice Bistro’s kitchen, he was returning to what he said he missed most: cooking. After years overseeing large operations, including Steam Restaurant & Bar and Cloud 9 Rooftop Bar at the Embassy Suites by Hilton Wilmington Riverfront and Jules on Bald Head Island, his day-to-day had gradually shifted away from the stove and toward paperwork, scheduling and managing the nonstop pace of resort dining.

“I was hardly in the kitchen,” Iseton said. “I oversaw it all, but I wanted to cook again. That’s what I get to do here. I cooked by myself last night, and I loved it. This is what I’m meant to do.”

At Caprice, Iseton arrives not to reinvent but to honor the reputation of his predecessor, Thierry Moity. He’s quick to acknowledge the nearly 25-year legacy of Caprice’s founding chef and his devoted clientele who know the menu by heart.

“I’m not changing any of his basic recipes,” Iseton said. “Those are the foundation. We’re keeping the staples – the beef bourguignon, the mussels, the crepes, the escargot, the French onion soup. But I’ll add my own touches here and there. I’m working with local farms, bringing in fresh seafood, and introducing specials. The idea is to honor what’s here, not to rock the boat.”

Iseton’s girlfriend recently surprised him with a trip to The Culinary Institute of America and Bocuse Restaurant to aid in his study of classical French techniques.

“The classic French sauces and techniques are the backbone of everything we do as chefs, so it’s always good to revisit the fundamentals,” Iseton said.

Early specials have been embraced enthusiastically, said owner Dustin Cook. They range from a wild-game cassoulet featuring house-made duck confit and rabbit sausage to fresh striped bass and scallop dishes.

While Iseton brings fresh energy to the kitchen, Caprice’s new owners, Cook and wife Edie Senter, bring decades of hospitality experience and a deeply personal connection to the restaurant.

The couple has eaten there for nearly 20 years. Their son, who is now 16 and working in the restaurant, grew up in the booths, often with chef Thierry’s wife, Patricia, bringing him ice cream to keep him entertained while they enjoyed an early dinner before the restaurant got busy.

“We’d sit at the same table for years,” Cook said. “It’s always felt like home.”

So, when they learned that the Moitys were ready to sell, they didn’t hesitate. The timing was right, and they knew what Caprice meant to Wilmington – and to them.

“One of the most important things for me was keeping the food consistent,” Cook said. “I’ve always loved the menu, and a lot of people feel the same way. We wanted to protect that.”

Both Cook and Senter have long backgrounds in hospitality. Cook spent years working in restaurants from Pittsburgh to New York and Philadelphia, including barista work, front of house service and operations and later DJing before taking on ownership roles in Wilmington’s nightlife scene with Pravda and Odessa nightclubs and the bar KGB. Senter’s experience includes work at Union Square Cafe in New York City, Pinot Hollywood with chef Govind Armstrong, and opening Benjamin Ford’s restaurant, Chadwick, in Beverly Hills.

Their transition from nightlife to a restaurant was as much about business as it was lifestyle.
“We raised our kids while getting home at three in the morning,” Cook said. “We wanted something that gave us more balance.”

Following chef Moity’s departure, longtime sous chef Chris Nash stepped up to run the kitchen. When Nash had to step away due to a family emergency, sous chef Kris Luna, also a longtime employee, held the kitchen together for more than a month while Cook interviewed executive chefs. Both Cook and Iseton said Luna’s knowledge of the decades-old recipes has been invaluable as he now works alongside Iseton.

Inside the restaurant, the Cooks have focused on subtle improvements rather than major overhauls. The upstairs lounge received a renovation, while downstairs has simply been refreshed where needed. Larger design changes may come later, possibly including more private seating areas.

Service remains a priority as well.

“I’ve always been impressed with the professionalism of the servers here,” Cook said. “Since we took over, we’ve made changes to help them do their jobs better. It’s always a work in progress, but we want the service to stay at that high level. We’re a bistro, so this isn’t fine dining, but we always strive to go above and beyond.”

“I want it to be a place where people know they can get great food and where cooks and servers can come to learn solid techniques,” Iseton said. “A place people feel proud to work.”

And Cook echoes that. “We want Caprice to continue being a Wilmington staple, and with James here, I’m excited for the future. He brings the kind of experience and professionalism we really need. We talk every day about what comes next.”

For now, guests can expect what they’ve always found at Caprice: warmth, familiarity and dishes that feel as timeless as the bistro itself, but now with fresh creativity simmering in the kitchen.