Cousins Coal Fired Pizzeria Brings New Pizza Style to Town

Fans of Cousins Italian Deli and New Haven-style pizza take note: Cousins Coal Fired Pizzeria, a new venture from local restaurateur Joe DeLiberto, is set to open its doors in March.

The new venture will be a takeout-only experience, featuring New Haven-style pizza, DeLiberto’s personal favorite.

New Haven-style pizza, also referred to as “apizza” (pronounced “ah-beets”), is a unique style of pizza that originates from New Haven, Connecticut. It has a thin, crispy crust and is traditionally cooked in a coal-fired oven, yielding a slightly charred flavor. Toppings range from traditional to creative, with one of the most famous being the white clam pizza.

DeLiberto, well-known for his sandwiches and weekend family-style dinners at Cousins Italian Deli, has dreamt of opening a pizzeria for years. The challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic only solidified his decision.

“Pizza has always been one of my favorite things, and when COVID hit, I realized how many pizzerias were thriving even without dine-in options,” he explained. “That really pushed me to go ahead and bring this idea to life.”

Though he admits it may seem like a bold move for someone who could be starting to step away from the hectic pace of restaurant life, DeLiberto said this is a passion project he feels compelled to take on.

At the same time, he was very deliberate in selecting a location.

“I know a lot of guys in the pizza business,” DeLiberto said. “And it was important to me that I wouldn’t be infringing on anyone else’s business. I wanted to open in a spot where I wasn’t competing against people I consider friends.”

The location, 914 S. Kerr Avenue, is relatively close to two national pizza chains but more of a distance from independently owned pizzerias.

The restaurant’s build-out, which required a top-to-bottom upfit, includes two coal-fired ovens.

“I’m pretty sure we’ll be the first in Wilmington to cook with these ovens,” said DeLiberto, who added he’s excited about offering something new to the community.

While DeLiberto knows he won’t exactly replicate the pizzas cooked in the iconic, century-old ovens found in New Haven pizzerias like Pepe’s, Sally’s and Modern, he’s committed to bringing that same authentic flavor to Wilmington.

DeLiberto has already spent time in some of New Haven’s pizzerias, and he’s heading back up north next month for his final reconnaissance mission. He plans to spend time at several pizzerias and has connected with one restaurateur who’s going to provide a bit more mentorship before DeLiberto heads home to fire up his ovens.

In the meantime, he’s been practicing at home. One of his favorite creations so far is a red bliss potato pizza with garlic, rosemary and olive oil. He’s not sure yet if the pizza will make it onto the menu because it’s labor intensive, but he said it’s one of the most delicious things he’s ever made.

DeLiberto is confident that his sauces and toppings will be executed perfectly but admits that the dough will be the biggest challenge.

“Dough is very temperamental and is impacted by humidity and temperature, and these are things that really fluctuate here,” DeLiberto said. “So, my biggest hurdle will be getting that dough right each and every time and making sure that after it’s been in a box for 15 or 20 minutes that it maintains the right consistency.”

The menu at Cousins Pizzeria will be simple, focusing on round pies only with no slices. There will be six to seven specialty pizzas, including an innovative shrimp and grits pie and a Big Mama pizza with spicy sausage, banana peppers and vodka sauce. For those craving something sweet, the pizzeria will also feature a Sicilian cannoli bar where customers can customize their cannolis.

Cousins Coal Fired Pizzeria will offer takeout only, with plans to open in the late afternoon around 4:30 p.m. and stay open until 9:30 p.m. or 10 p.m. during the week and a little later on weekends.

As he prepares for a mid-March opening, DeLiberto is excited to share his passion for pizza with the community.

“We’ve really worked hard to create something special here, and I can’t wait to bring these New Haven-style pizzas to Wilmington,” he said. “I hope people will love it as much as I do.”