From Step Stool to Smokehouse

For James McDuffie, every dish at MeMa’s Chick’n & Ribs traces back to his earliest memories of standing on a step stool in his mother’s kitchen, eager to help and learn.

“My time in the kitchen began with my mom, MeMa,” McDuffie said. “I used to hang in the kitchen with her all the time, using my little step stool to reach things in the cabinets for her. I was very interested in food – cooking it and eating it. I found food fascinating.”

Those early lessons in scratch-made cooking stayed with him, even as life took him in a different direction. McDuffie dreamed of culinary school and was accepted to Le Cordon Bleu but chose instead to serve in the Marine Corps. He saw his parents struggling to put his older siblings through school and felt it was the right thing to do.

After 20 years of service, he transitioned to running a trucking and landscaping business to help put his own children through college before finally returning to his first love.

“I came back to what I really want to do,” he said. “I enjoy serving my country, don’t get me wrong, but cooking was at my heartstrings.”

McDuffie and his wife, Myra, opened MeMa’s Chick’n & Ribs in Burgaw in 2017, naming it in honor of his mother.

“MeMa’s is meant to remind you of a home-cooked meal,” McDuffie said. “My mother taught me how to cook, so I wanted to give her that honor while she’s living.”

After six successful years of serving customers in Burgaw, the McDuffies decided not to renew their lease and instead focused on moving the restaurant closer to Wilmington. Exactly one year to the day after closing the Burgaw location, the McDuffies finalized the purchase of 8232 Market St., the 7,600-square-foot space they opened last November.

Many of MeMa’s recipes still appear on the menu, while McDuffie has developed his own expertise in smoking meats. At MeMa’s, the smoker never rests – brisket, pulled pork, chicken, turkey and ribs spend hours over oak, pecan and hickory, with the occasional kiss of cherry or applewood for sweetness. Each wood adds its own character, creating layers of flavor that keep customers coming back plate after plate, pound after pound.

In addition to serving at the restaurant, MeMa’s also offers off- and on-site catering for parties of all sizes, with a private room and outdoor patio available for reservation.

Another important aspect of the business is MeMa’s commitment to community. During hurricanes and ice storms, the McDuffies and their team step up to keep essential workers fed. One of his biggest partnerships has been with Duke Energy, serving the line workers who are working around the clock to restore power during weather emergencies.

“We’ve done thousands of meals for them,” McDuffie said. “When everybody else is shut down, we’ll set up with our mobile kitchen. Line workers are out there in the elements, and when they come back in, we make sure they’ve got a hot meal waiting.”

The McDuffies’ commitment to serving the community – whether it’s a family dinner or an entire utility crew – is at the heart of everything they do.

Food is the medium they use to nurture positive connections. There’s no Wi-Fi code, no bar, just good food and the chance for families to connect across the table, distraction-free. Since 2017, James and Myra McDuffie have made it a point to touch every table, greeting guests as if they were in their own home.

“That’s what MeMa’s is all about,” McDuffie said. “Family gathering around, having a good meal and making sure every customer feels cared for.”